Tamsin Constable

Jus, coulis, nestled on a bed of…

The Grumpy Guide to Food & Wine on tv last night included a few enjoyable whinges about the words that some restaurants use to pad out their menus and impress their diners. Things such as ‘a symphony of…’ (a mix). ‘Coulis’ (sauce/gravy), and ‘jus’ (also sauce/ gravy, but this time a really stingy amount). And flim-flam-flubber to you, too.

Is this just another case of harmless, slightly righteous fun? Yes, but there’s more to it, and only chef Antony Worrall Thompson nailed it. I paraphrase, because I didn’t grab a pen in time, but he said something along the lines of ‘People think that if they put these pretentious words in there, they can charge twice as much.’

And that is what it boils down to. (Sorry, reduces.)

I’m off for some Yorkshire-grown slivers of pomme-de-terre, sustainably seared with a croustade of goujons de fish and served on a platter of finely moulded artisan polystyrene with a compote of gently pressed peas. From the chippie.

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